Blue Corfu: the Island's Beaches
By Nicolo Gervasi
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Ulysses landed in Corfu exhausted and naked – we recommend you at least wear a swimsuit.
Nearing the end of his ten-year journey home, Ulysses got caught in a storm. By that time, the protagonist of Homer’s Odyssey was sailing on a fragile raft, built for him by one of his numerous flings, the nymph Calypso. Violent waves swallowed his boat, forcing him to swim for days until – by some godly design – he reached an island. Today, 3,000 years later, the place Ulysses knew as Island of the Phaeacians is a holiday destination called Corfu.
The Greek island, located west of the peninsula, no longer welcomes lost kings of Ithaca, but it looks more tempting by the minute for young travellers. Low-cost airlines like EasyJet are offering round trips to the destination for as cheap as £50 from major European airports. Corfu should be on your radar this summer if – like Ulysses – you’re looking to get some rest by the sea. The allure of the island’s beaches is far superior to that of its underwhelming nightlife. Ipsos and Corfu Town, usually cited as popular nightlife spots, appear cruelly empty on weekend summer nights. Could the tired old tunes playing in the few overpriced clubs be driving people away?
So if you’re heading to Corfu with the intention of painting the town red, think again. The only colour worth exploring on the island is blue.
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Best for cove hopping
Legend has it, Palaiokastritsa bay is where Ulysses first landed in Corfu, which makes it the perfect start to your itinerary. Compared to other routes on the island, getting to Palaiokastritsa is hassle-free. Streets connecting the bay with nearby towns such as Ipsos and Afionas are wide and in good condition, which is not exactly a given in Corfu. You’ll find authentic Greek eateries and street food, serving not-too-spicy dishes perfect for a hot day. Our favourite? Paprika and herb beef burgers with creamy feta cheese (approx. £7).
Palaiokastritsa has some of the most unspoilt beaches on the island. Only Ampelaki bears a slight human touch, with kiosks, inflatables and a boardwalk. It’s also the convenient location of Palaiokastritsa Boat Rentals: your golden ticket to the bay’s coves.
What you’ll see once you set sails won’t be too different from the shimmering landscape that welcomed Ulysses to the island. Unlike his, however, your vessel will be equipped with an engine and a cooler for smooth navigation. An abundance of little coves sit along the rugged coastline. The white-pebbled havens, carved into the island’s mountainous sides, are often deserted, caressed only by soft, crystal waves. The water around them shines with some of the richest blue in the Mediterranean.
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Best for sunbathing and diving
Thousands of smooth, white pebbles fill up Kassiopi beach, reflecting light and casting a warm glow. A few hours in the divine sunshine, and you might start to believe Helios, ancient Greek god of the sun, is sending you those rays himself. The bumpy surface forces sunbathers to upgrade from a towel to a sunbed, making for a more luxurious tanning experience. Luckily, luxury comes cheap, as sunbeds are available to rent at a few euros for the whole day. Kassiopi is surrounded by fragrant Mediterranean maquis, teeming with wild rosemary, thyme and broom. It’s overlooked by rocky cliffs that were made for diving.
Best for sunsets and swimming
Agios Gordios and Logas are the only places to be while the sun goes down. Both conveniently facing west, the two beaches offer unparalleled sunset views. You will stare Helios right in the face as he begins to descend below the horizon, setting the sky and the sea on fire.
Agios Gordios is only accessible via narrow village streets alive with tavernas and friendly locals. The road overlooks the beach from above, revealing its immensity. Rugged rocks shield the stretch of sand from most winds, providing tranquil waters perfect for a relaxing swim.
Logas, on the other hand, centred its whole brand around sunset viewing. And by brand we mean a handcrafted sign dubbing it “the sunset beach”. The stoney beach lies at the bottom of towering rock walls, at the edge of nearby village Peroulades. The view can be enjoyed from above at the trendy bar Panorama, which hosts a sophisticated aperitif with tropical fruit cocktails (£5-10) every Sunday. It even has a glass viewpoint for those brave enough to marvel at the shoreline right beneath their feet. Logas’s sunset has a surreal lilac hue to it, with colours unlike anything we’d ever seen before.
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Best for getting away from the crowd
True adventurers shouldn’t miss Kontogialos beach, a secluded oasis hiding beyond the wilderness. Ancient pines and oak trees surround the beach for miles, casting a cool shade all the way up the green hills above. Though the sea is not as clear as it is elsewhere around the island, its emerald hue and rocky natural pools make up for it. The catch? A tortuous hiking path is the only way to reach Kontogialos. Luckily, Gyaliskari Tavern, the beach’s small restaurant, serves delicious fuel in the form of Greek yoghurt, chicken pita wraps and fresh calamari to enjoy before making your way back. Most dishes are under £10.
Best avoided
Dassia and Ipsos Beach are far from terrible. By generous standards, they are even decent, if you overlook the busy road right next to Ipsos Beach and Dassia’s sticky, dusty sand. Both are located around Ipsos, a lively town dense with cheap accommodation. However, they’re not worth your time considering the splendour that awaits elsewhere along the coast.




Corfu is often thought of as the refuge where the shipwrecked Ulysses was saved and pointed towards home, indeed, it is a great location for sailing
Corfu's landscape is defined by rugged mountains and smooth shorelines constellated with touristic spots
The rock in the sea at the top is considered by the locals to be the mythical petrified ship of Ulysses
West-facing Agios Gordos is the place to be when it comes to watching a captivating sunset
Get your wanderlust to the roof with this snippet of how much fun you could be having in Corfu
Ph. Etheriel
Ph. Kritzolina